Know what to look for in effective winter wear and how to layer winter clothes to keep out the chill.
Whether you’re working around the homestead or playing outdoors this winter, the right clothes are key to staying comfortable. A heavy parka is fine if you’re just running to the store, but layering is the best way to stay dry and warm during hard work.
Heavy parkas and insulated coveralls tend to be the go-to choices for cold climates. However, heavy coats can make you sweat. Anyone who’s caught a chill swimming in 70-degree-Fahrenheit water knows that water steals heat from your body much faster than air does – more than 20 times as fast.
Perspiration trapped next to your skin can chill just as fast as a cold shower. Combining the right layers can help move that sweat away from your skin and keep you warm and comfortable.
By wearing multiple thinner layers, you can add or remove clothing to match your activity level, making you less likely to work up a sweat in the first place. And if you layer with quick-drying, wicking fabrics, your body heat will drive moisture away from your skin, toward the outside of your clothes, and into the environment.
A layered-clothing system has three components: a wicking layer next to your skin, an insulation layer to trap body heat, and a shell layer to block wind and weather. These components work together to manage moisture and retain body heat.
Base Layer: Wicking Fabrics
Wicking action is based on the structure of the individual fibers and their ability to spread out moisture and move it away from your skin. Wool fibers have a scaly outer surface that spreads out perspiration through capillary action. Polyester fibers are hydrophobic, which means they won’t absorb moisture. These fibers are also etched to mimic the scaly surface of wool. Which is better? Polyester is quicker to dry than wool and perhaps more durable. Wool is a renewable resource and manages body odor much better than synthetics. Both are excellent choices for your base layer.
Cotton fibers, on the other hand, absorb and retain water and are slow to dry. In fact, cotton has such a bad reputation as a base layer that the outdoor community reminds us to leave the T-shirt at home with the phrase “cotton kills.” You can layer the fanciest fleece jacket over a sweaty cotton T-shirt, and you’ll still be chilled to the bone. Save the cotton for hot weather, and focus on wool or polyester base layers for winter wear.
When shopping for base layers, don’t neglect your skivvies. There’s no point in layering wicking long underwear over a cotton sports bra or briefs. Seek out synthetic or wool versions of these garments for your cold-weather closet.
Insulation Layer: Quick-Drying and Breathable
Once you have your base layer on, add one or more layers of insulation on top. Wool and polyester are again some of the best choices. People have been wearing wool clothes for centuries. They’re warm, they wick moisture, and they dry fairly quickly. Polyester fleece fabrics are lighter and quicker to dry than wool, arguably making them a better choice for high-intensity activities. Polyester “grid fleece” has additional appeal: It has a bicomponent weave that wicks moisture from the inside to the outside of the fabric. These fabrics first appeared in mountaineering clothing a couple of decades ago and have since been adopted as part of the U.S. Army’s cold-weather uniform.
Don’t be tempted to throw on a down or synthetic puffy coat for this insulation layer. Down (fine feathers) lose loft as they absorb moisture. Most puffy jackets also trap perspiration because the shell fabric of the jacket has been calendered. Calendered fabrics are heat-pressed on one side to create a down-resistant barrier. Down feathers like to poke through synthetic shells. Calendered fabrics keep the feathers in – but they trap sweat too.
This doesn’t mean you should ditch your down coat altogether. Puffy coats have a place, just not inside your layering system.
Shells: Windbreakers, Not Raincoats
A cold wind will blow right through your insulating layers, stealing all the heat your body produces. So, if the wind is howling, top off your cold-weather clothes with a shell.
High-tech waterproof or breathable shell jackets and pants, like the ones you’ll find in backpacking stores, promise to allow perspiration to escape while blocking out rain. In theory, they should work, but in practice, they can leave you feeling sweaty and clammy. It’s my experience that these “waterproof-breathable” fabrics often don’t breathe well enough for use as a cold-weather shell. Once you start working hard, body heat and perspiration will build up on the inside of even the best waterproof or breathable fabrics. In cold weather, that trapped sweat will freeze to the inside of your jacket, just like frost forming on a window. A fully breathable shell is a better choice when temperatures plunge.
Fully breathable shells come in all types, from ultralight windbreakers to heavy surplus field jackets. Among the best for cold-weather use are the so-called “soft shells” made from tightly woven synthetic materials. They’re heavier than the lightest windbreakers, so they hold up better to hard use, and they’re also breathable and wind-resistant. Avoid shells that have a windproof membrane in them, as these trap moisture in the same way a waterproof-breathable raincoat does.
Cotton fabrics have a place as breathable shells. Twentieth-century mountaineering shell parkas were made from a cotton-nylon blend, as were military field jackets. And rugged canvas shells are a popular choice for tough outdoor work. Cotton shell jackets and pants won’t dry as fast as synthetic materials, and they’re usually heavier. They’re not the best choice for extended cold-weather exertion, but they’ll serve well when working around your home.
Don’t Forget About the Rain
Cold, rainy conditions are some of the most challenging. If it’s pouring rain and temperatures are in the 30s, you’re more at risk of getting soaked and chilled from the outside than from the inside. You’ll need to break out that raincoat and pants.
Here’s where waterproof-breathable fabrics shine. These fabrics allow some perspiration to escape, especially once your exertion level drops. In extreme wet weather, fully waterproof, nonbreathable gear may be the best option, but for most applications, the lighter-weight breathable fabrics are more comfortable to wear and more versatile.
When you pull out your rain gear, remember that a waterproof shell, even a breathable one, will make you much warmer and sweatier than you would’ve been in a regular windbreaker. It’s a good idea to shed an insulation layer or two when you throw on your rain gear to help avoid overheating.
Puffy Layers for When You Stop Moving
Puffy down and synthetic insulation aren’t good within your layering system, but they’re a great option when you stop moving. When we stop for a break, our bodies don’t produce as much heat, and we can quickly become chilled.
Puffy coats (and even pants) are lightweight enough to carry in a pack and will warm you quickly. Consider sizing up so you can wear it over your other layers.
Where to Get Your Gear
While your local outdoor store offers loads of high-tech layering options, you don’t have to break the bank to put together an effective winter layering system. In fact, with the exception of the base layer, you can probably put together a passable set of cold-weather clothes with a visit to the local thrift store. And, since the U.S. Army revised its cold-weather uniform in the early 2000s, surplus options for base layers, insulation, and shells abound. Big-name outdoor brands may offer better fit and function, plus a generous warranty. These features are worth having, but you can be comfortable in the outdoors without the latest gear.
Put it All Together
Now that we have our base layer, insulation, wind shell, and rain shell, how do we use them all? The idea is to wear just the right amount of insulation to keep you warm without breaking a sweat. Learning what to wear and when takes a little practice, but the basic idea is simple. If you know you’ll be working hard, start off with less clothing than you think you’ll need. Start a little bit cold, because you’ll warm up when you get going. Likewise, if you’re comfortable but know you’ll be bumping up your activity level – say, climbing a steep hill – shed a layer before you start.
Wind shells are an effective way to regulate temperature. A shell over your base layer can be surprisingly warm, even with no other insulation. If you overheat, shedding your shell will cool you quickly. If you start feeling cold, add another insulating layer. Throw on that layer before you feel a chill, if possible. Just as when shedding layers, it helps to anticipate how active you plan to be and adjust your clothing beforehand. If you stop for lunch after a vigorous hike, put on an extra layer before you start to feel chilled. This will maintain your body temperature and help dry any moisture that remains inside your clothes.
Every person is different. Some of us run hot, some colder. The best way for you to know what will work for your own comfort is to experiment. Layer up for a walk around the neighborhood, check the temperature, and take notes about how well your clothing matched the conditions. After a few sessions, you’ll know what to wear whether you’re on skis, clearing brush, or walking the dog. And you’ll be well on your way to comfort in the cold.
Originally published as “Layering for Cold-Weather Comfort” in the December 2024/January 2025 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS and regularly vetted for accuracy.
Brian Day has worked in the outdoor industry for over 30 years. If you’re interested in a deeper dive into the world of outdoor clothing.